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Thursday, January 14, 2010

Tulamben, scuba diving heaven






Underwater playground: Scuba diver is seen near the Liberty wreck. Courtesy of Tulamben Wreck DiversUnderwater playground: Scuba diver is seen near the Liberty wreck. Courtesy of Tulamben Wreck Divers

Tulamben, known in the diving world as one of Bali’s premier dive locations, preserves a piece of history as its visitors and residents protect its marine life.

On Jan. 11, 1942, the USAT Liberty started sinking after a Japanese torpedo struck it. Towed to the shore by the American destroyer USS Paul Johns, the Liberty was brought to Tulamben to unload its cargo and supplies since the Singaraya harbor was too full.

It remained in the small village of Tulamben partially submerged in water. Then in 1963, Mount Agung erupted and the lava and earthquakes pushed the ship further down into the water, where it rests on the ocean floor parallel to the shoreline.

Now scuba divers gear up to swim into an underwater playground, where the coral grows on the ship’s 120-meter frame and where marine life includes schooling jack fish, barracuda, napoleon wrasse, humpback parrot fish, white and blacktip reef sharks, as well as pigmy seahorses.

Marine life: Large varieties of tropical fish charm divers in Tulamben Bay, one of Bali’s main dive sites. Given the number of visitors to the bay, protection of marine life is critical.Marine life: Large varieties of tropical fish charm divers in Tulamben Bay, one of Bali’s main dive sites. Given the number of visitors to the bay, protection of marine life is critical. JP/Todd Teetzel

There are also nudibranches, many kinds of shrimps and crabs, octopus, hard and soft coral. Divers can place their hands on the helm of the ship approximately 13 meters deep. Meanwhile, snorkelers and free divers can marvel at the wreck by swimming 30 meters to the bow and peer down three meters below the surface.

A handful of resorts cater the tastes of guests – divers and non-divers alike.

“Tulamben is a very quiet place with a strong focus on leisure and unwinding, and diving of course,” says Axel Schwan, owner of Tauch Terminal Resort.

While diving at the wreck is the main attraction, guests can also enjoy spa services and scenic spaces to unwind. The black stone beaches might not be ideal for beach-bound sunbathers, but the resort pools and decks all but kiss the ocean and offer a serene setting to capture some rays.

Day trips to Tulamben in East Bali are possible from Kuta, Legian, Seminyak, Sanur, Jimbaran, Nusa Dua and Ubud, for an additional cost. A daytrip from the south of Bali to Tulamben with Tauch Terminal Resort is €72 (US$105) including equipment, two guided dives, lunch and drinks, return transfer and insurance.

Most diving schools offer three leisurely days of classes, theoretical and practical, for those wanting a scuba diving certificate. Certification types vary according to diving organizations (SSI and PADI), which offer anything from beginner courses to professional diving.

Given the number of visitors who journey to Tulamben for extended stays or day trips, protection of marine life is critical.

Tauch Terminal Resort is one of Tulamben’s resorts committed to environmental protection. Since their “eco” initiative began, they have installed solar heaters for water, separated waste, and engaged in educating employees on the importance of environmental protection. In collaboration with a professional company in Gianyar, they endeavor to reduce the general waste load and avoid uncontrolled waste burning, especially plastic littering.

“We see more and more positive response and participation here,” Schwan affirmed. For continued success, the cooperation of all parties is needed.

“All together locals, businesses and guests understand today how important it is to take care of nature,” he added.

Green investments are proving to be worthwhile.

“If I save energy replacing all possible light bulbs with energy saving ones, It is costly in the first place, but I save on electricity in the long run. If we replace all our diving torches with rechargeable led torches, we first have to spend serious money buying them, but in the long run we save so much on batteries that it pays off again,” said general manager of Tauch Terminal Resort, Andreas Wittig.

The same goes for their installation of water filters since they can save on the cost of buying and transporting gallons of water.

Wittig sees the potential and the challenges in cooperative efforts.

“It was very interesting to see our staff slowly but surely change their attitude in that matter. We still have a long way to go, but seeing them really participate, or sometimes even take the initiative, only confirms our efforts.”


He added that “the most important point is that every single issue assures a healthier environment, which provides us with the resources to care in the first place.”

Mimpi Resort in Tulamben stocks rooms with tips for protecting life on land and in the sea. Tulamben remains a no-fishing zone. Any time fishing or other illegal activity is spotted, it is immediately reported and the perpetrator is penalized.

Leaders in the field of fish ichthyology estimate there are 500 species of reef fishes just around the wreck environment, states Mimpi Resort’s website.

The porters hired by dive operations to transport the air tanks also help keep the beaches clean and watch for illegal activity, according to Wayan Ambek of Tulamben Wreck Divers.

Tauch Terminal Resort’s overarching “eco” goal ensures the resort keeps investing in sustainable initiatives. That goal is “to keep Bali clean, to keep the environment healthy and balanced, and to preserve Bali’s beautiful nature for following generations,” said Wittig.