Spiritual tourism in Sidoarjo

Holy Sail: Throngs of fishermen sail to Dewi Sekardadu’s tomb. JP/Alpha SavitriHoly Sail: Throngs of fishermen sail to Dewi Sekardadu’s tomb. JP/Alpha Savitri

Sidoarjo regency is more likely to evoke painful thoughts of thousands of Lapindo mudflow victims still left in limbo rather than instill a desire to take a leisurely stroll around the area.

But aside from attracting attention as a prime location for natural disasters and man-made catastrophes, Sidoarjo has also become an increasingly popular destination for spiritual tourism.

In Kepetingan, Sawohan, Sidoarjo, East Java, there is a tomb believed to be final resting place of Dewi Sekardadu, the mother of Sunan Giri, one of the Wali Sanga - the "Nine Saints" responsible for spreading Islam across Java.

The most common way to reach the tomb is a 90-minute trip by motor boat from one of the small piers in Bluru Kidul village near the Fish Market on Jl. West Circle, or from Karanggayam village. It is also possible to reach the tomb overland, however the route is quite risky during the wet season, as it follows paths criss-crossing a number of ponds.

Despite being relatively difficult to reach, the tomb is nevertheless attracting an increasing number of pilgrims. According to Haji Waras, a community leader in the village of Kepetingan, pilgrims are usually made up of fishermen, cultural experts, spiritual figures or tourists who have heard about the tomb through word of mouth.

In the 1980s, one or two visitors came to visit the tomb each week. Today, individuals and groups come to pay their respect to Dewi Sekardadu. "The number of visitors increases around the time of the nyadran ceremony, which is held twice a year," Haji said.Fishing communities from around Sidoarjo revere Sunan Giri's mother's grave.

Marching on: Boys carrying offerings walk to the tomb of Dewi Sekardadu, the mother of Sunan Giri, one of the Wali Sanga – the “Nine Saints” responsible for spreading Islam across Java. JP/Alpha SavitriMarching on: Boys carrying offerings walk to the tomb of Dewi Sekardadu, the mother of Sunan Giri, one of the Wali Sanga – the “Nine Saints” responsible for spreading Islam across Java. JP/Alpha Savitri

Every Islamic new year (which this year fell in March), and near Ramadan, fishermen from Sidoarjo and their families get together to celebrate nyadran, which consists in thanking God for health and prosperity provided by the sea.

"Fishermen from villages in the area hold melarung ceremonies. They throw some tumpeng *cone-shaped rice dishes served with meat and vegetables* into the sea, and also take some more *tumpeng* to Dewi Sekardadu's tomb, where the fishermen and their families will eat it together.

But where does nyadran originate from? It is said the celebrations are related to Dewi Sekardadu's tomb. The story of the tomb is rich in legend.

He who holds the key: Samadi, the gatekeeper for Dewi Sekardadu’s tomb. JP/Alpha SavitriHe who holds the key: Samadi, the gatekeeper for Dewi Sekardadu’s tomb. JP/Alpha Savitri

The sacred site's custodian, Samadi, explains that Sekardadu was the daughter of King Menak Sembuyu, the 14th century ruler of Blambangan, Banyuwangi, East Java. According to legend, the area of Blambangan suffered outbreaks of diseases.

The king sought famous shamans to devise cures but to no avail.The king then organized a contest, promising his daughter's hand to whoever could cure her. But no one could heal the princess.

One night, King Menak dreamed the only person who could save his daughter was Islamic leader Syeh Maulana Iskak who had settled in Gresik, East Java.

He quickly summoned the preacher, who managed to cure the princess and took his prize.After tying the knot, they lived in Blambangan, where residents listened to Syeh Maulana preach.

One by one, villagers left their belief in Hinduism, and turned to Islam.This enraged members of the kingdom's powerful elite including, eventually, the king himself.

Even Dewi Sekardadu began to resent her husband. Syeh Maulana finally left the palace to preach elsewhere, leaving his wife, who was pregnant by then.

The baby, who was born in 1365 AD and named Raden Paku, was kidnapped by power hungry officials and placed in a box then nailed and threw into the sea.

Upon learning that her son had been thrown into the sea, Dewi Sekardadu attempted to swim after him but drowned as the box floated away.Fishermen from Balongdowo found the body of a beautiful woman, who they believed to be Sekardadu, floating in the sea.

The body was brought to shore, and then given a proper burial.It turns out Sekardadu's baby, Raden Paku, ended up surviving. A fishing boat rescued him, who today is known as Sunan Giri, one of nine saints of Islam.

- Photos by JP/Alpha Savitri